Today I want to share the story behind these homemade “croquetas”, made exclusively from the leftover meat on some fish spines I got for free.
There’s an author, chef, and TV personality here in Catalunya named Maria Nicolau. If you live in the area, you may have seen her on TV3 or heard her on the radio. She’s important in this story because last year she single-handedly revolutionized my cooking life.
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I can write at least 10 newsletters on why that is, but today, I want to share just one passage from her first book Cuina! O Barbarie that left a huge mark on me. I would insert the entire chapter if I could:
Cada cop que aneu a la peixateria i demaneu, directament i sense mirar el mostrari, un lluc tallat a rodanxes, un parell de llenguados o una safata de supremes de salmó; cada vegada que us ho pesen, netegen i serveixen; que ho pagueu i marxeu... Cada compra d'aquest tipus que feu és una daga clavada al cor dels mártirs de la sostenibilitat i de la cuina…
💖 A la peixateria s'hi ha d'anar amb l'esperit inflamat de la joia de qui puja dalt dels cims, amb el cor alegre d'aquell que es mor de ganes de saber què li han portat els Reis! 💖 Els ulls ben oberts per gaudir de les vistes, un punt de neguit anticipant «qué hi trobaré?», «què no hi trobaré?», i plena predisposició a deixar-se convencer no tant per les peixateres, sinó pel gènero.
La peixateria és una porta al mar a través de la qual el mar, amo i senyor del que és seu, ofereix. Nosaltres hi hem d'anar nus i descalços de pretensions, disposats a celebrar troballes, si n'hi ha, i a marxar-ne amb el cistell buit si el que hi trobem són només els quatre sospitosos habituals de la lista dels més venuts, que qui sap d'on venen i com han estat criats.
The TL;DR in English is that going to the fishmonger having stubbornly decided that you’ll buy salmon is the least sustainable way to shop and feed yourself. Instead, and I love this part, the most fun and sustainable way to shop for fish is to show up with your “spirit inflamed with joy” and a “cheerful heart that’s dying to know what the 3 Wise Kings have brought [to the fish stand]”.
It’s similar to the feeling of randomness and spontaneity induced by the produce box from my last newsletter.
Inspired by this quote, I recently walked into the Mercat de Sant Gervasi to browse the fish shops. I had also learned in one of my cooking classes that if you ask for fish heads and spines (to make broth), they give them to you for free, and I wanted to give it a try.
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I honestly don’t remember what actual fish I bought, but when I asked if they had any carcasses/heads leftover today, they said yes! I ended up taking home the head of a rather large monkfish. My spirit began to inflame with joy because yay! the 3 Wise Kings had gifted me with free stuff.
I threw the carcass in some water with some aromatics, made broth, and noticed there was a fair amount of meat left on the bones. I picked it all off by hand because I have way too much time, and realized I had the perfect main ingredient to make croquetas.
What is a croqueta?
A croqueta is none other than a delicious way to give new life to all the parts of an animal or vegetable that don’t look pretty served on their own. You can learn how to make them in this video also from Maria Nicolau, which I found extremely helpful and simple. She uses the leftovers from her Sunday roasted chicken, whereas I threw in my spine meat and some leeks.
I ended up serving mine with lemons because their taste and texture reminded me more of fish fritters from somewhere in New England than croquetas. Which is another great thing about cooking - you don’t always end up where you intended, but it never really matters.
And now that I know that croquetas are really just a way to give new life to meat that doesn’t come in filets, I love them even more.
(By the way, Maria also writes a newsletter in Catalan. You can find it here.)
👩🏻🍳 Cooking tips
Ask any butcher or fishmonger near you if they have carcasses. You will most likely get them for free along with any other purchase you make.
Ask them how they like to use whatever you buy. The other day I was in a market in Santa Coloma and Toni, a butcher, gave me a 20-minute explanation on how he uses the beef bones he sells to feed his family of 4. It was very enlightening.
And if you’re never made broth before, don’t worry. It’s so easy that you could probably do it while listening in on your morning meetings. The only thing you really need to know is that you should start with the ingredients in the pot with cold water. That way, all the flavor in the ingredients ooze out slowly as they’re heated. Here you’ll find a more scientific explanation and more tips 🤓
And from there, the possibilities are endless 🚀
3️⃣ Barcelona tips for you
If you want to learn more about broth and Catalan cooking
My professor from the seasonal cooking class I took this spring highly recommended the book Cuina amb Joan Roca (Cook with Joan Roca in English). Joan Roca is a big deal in Catalunya + Spain and this book has some great foundational knowledge on how to make broths and other Catalan classics (he even goes into kimchi). For those of you in Barcelona, here is the link to the book in the public library catalog. (Pro-tip: find the library closest to you, email them this link, and ask them to deliver the book there.)
Speaking of the Roca brothers, if you are ever in Girona, check out their chocolate store Casa Cacao. The chai tea chocolate is subtle and delicious. 🍫
If you’re tired of hearing me talk about animals and their carcasses
The Feria Vegana in Barcelona happens once a month, and it’s always free to enter. (There’s one this Sunday!) They have vegan everything - candles, cosmetics, and importantly, food and desserts. I’ve always found a wide variety of cuisines represented, so it’s a wonderful place to grab lunch while appreciating all things vegan.
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If you like free cooking classes
I honestly believe these classes are Barcelona’s Best Kept Secret, and here I am, publishing them to the public at my own peril. I say that because the more y’all sign up, the lower the likelihood that I’ll get into the courses myself. But in the name of advocating for home cooking, I highly recommend checking out the Formació Subvencionada at CETT in Horta-Guinardó. I’ve taken 5 courses there so far and all have been absolutely marvelous. You can access them as long as you have a Spanish payslip, and there’s also a small percentage of spots for unemployed people.
Live closer to Poblenou? Check out the Escola Superior de Hostaleria de Barcelona, which offers a similar set of free courses.
Or Sabadell? Check out the Gremi de Flequers de la Província de Barcelona for free courses on baking and desserts.
🌏 Language corner
“Has begut oli”
In the spirit of celebrating all things Catalan, here’s one from my boyfriend, one of the most Catalan people I know. The literal translation is “you’ve drunk oil”, and it’s used to say that you’ve messed up badly, and sadly, there is no turning back, no remedy, it’s over, my friend.
This very cute website of Catalan expressions says it comes from one of the punishment mechanisms of the Inquisition. I’ll leave it to you to read more because it is thoroughly unpleasant.
☀️ And finally, a summertime experiment
The lovely folks at Niwa Cafeteria (gràcies Li and Mònica!), a Japanese café run by the school where I take Korean class, recently helped me try an ice cream idea I’ve always had 😍
Injeolmi is a powder made of toasted soy bean typically used on dduk (rice cakes) and as a topping for patbingsoo (Korean shaved ice). We did a test run that turned out well, and the only thing I’d change is the texture. Stay tuned for more ice cream experiments~
Let me know if you ever have the chance to chat with your fishmonger! Or any food provider for that matter. And also feel free to let me know what you’re cooking this summer, since broth season is long gone and I need ideas!
Until July 18,
Janey